I am going to digress for just a moment with the post regarding Anne-Sophie Pic. It's coming. My mind is fluttering. There are things you think about when you first have a child. "Will they talk?" comes to mind. And of course they do - and they not only talk - they have opinions. And they belong to themselves. And it's a wonder. A day may come when you're sitting at a concert and your daughter is performing a flute solo and your mind races through time - to the curly-afro child who never let you comb her hair (she has since embraced the world of hair straighteners) - to the 5 year-old climbing on high kitchen cabinets to snare a cookie when she thought her mother wasn't looking - to her 13-year old rebellion when she refused to bring home the "red folder" from middle school because she didn't need a stupid folder to bring her parents school notices. She could do it just fine. She wasn't a child! But she was and now she isn't. Well, she is when she goes out at night to search for pre-made cookie dough because her mother hasn't supplied her with cookies - and it's finals week. But she isn't when she is a college graduate. And she is. And she worked for it. The little girl who brought home stellar report cards with the only admonishment "Quiet. Could participate more" is on her journey to be an audiologist and work with the deaf - specifically young children. There's a smile here - my quiet school girl working to open up a noisy world for others.
And another smile - because she can still be goofy. I think "being goofy" is a necessary life skill.
Anne-Sophie Pic is to the kitchen born in the best sense of that phrase. She is chef at "Le Maison Pic" and "Le 7." "Le Maison Pic" was founded by Anne-Sophie Pic's grandfather, Andre Pic, in 1936. (And Andre's mother had previously run a restaurant there as far back as 1891!) Andre grew-up watching his mother cook local specialties. He apprenticed under some of France's top chefs, came home and took over the business. In 1934, "Le Maison Pic" was awarded 3 Michelin stars. Thrilled with his new status, in 1936 Andre moved the restaurant to its present locale in the heart of Valence. During Word War II, the restaurant lost it's 3rd Michelin star. But when Andre's son Jacques took over, the restaurant regained the coveted 3rd star in 1973.
Jacques and his wife Suzanne (Anne-Sophie's parents) brought the restaurant to international acclaim. Over the years, the 3rd star was again lost in 1995 and after over ten years as Chef, Anne-Sophie reclaimed the 3rd star in 2007. She is the 4th female chef in France to achieve 3 Michelin stars. You can imagine the drama in those stars! In 2011 at age 41, she was named Best Female Chef of the year by S. Pellegrino.
Chef Anne-Sophie is a self-taught chef with a very good pedigree. She did not study the culinary arts in college - she studied business and indeed began her work life in the world of business. Eventually she returned to the fold and began cooking. While staying true to her father's vision, she has her own inherent sense of combining ingredients. This tomato chutney recipe is an excellent example. Just look at the ingredients - all full-flavored but they do not compete. They combine to layer flavors - so that the sweetness of the honey and tomatoes begin your tasting journey but you are treated to a pit of pungency, a little sour and a brief hint of hot before you finish a bite.
Tomato Chutney Ingredients (Recipe from Epicurious)
2-1/4 pounds plum tomatoes
5 tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1/4 balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup mild honey
1 tablespoon coarse-grained mustard
1 star anise or 1 teaspoon star anise pieces
1 tablespoon peeled, minced fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon fresh, minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon chili powder
Cut an X in bottom of each tomato with a sharp paring knife and blanch tomatoes together in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling water, 10 seconds. Transfer tomatoes to a bowl of ice water to cool. Peel off skin with paring knife, beginning from scored end, and discard. Coarsely chop tomatoes.
Cook sugar in a dry 2-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, undisturbed, until it begins to melt. Continue to cook, stirring, until sugar melts into a golden caramel. Remove from heat and carefully add vinegars. Stir in remaining ingredients and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 1 1/2 hours. Discard star anise.
Chef Anne-Sophie Pic serves this chutney with a skewer of rabbit liver and kidney. I - won't. I will be slathering this on sandwiches and serving it as an accompaniment to pork. But having spoon-fed myself quite a bit of this chutney - I think it would a be a welcome accompaniment to chicken, steak and fish. It embraces all. Don't eat meat? Mix it in with rice or use it as a topping for crostini. It is an equal-opportunity small dish.
Please check out what the other bloggers are doing for Week 28 of Female Chef Gourmet Game Changers. And if you want to join in the fun, e-mail Mary at One Perfect Bite. Mary started this delectable journey. We are taking a holiday break and will resume the posts after the New Year.
Annie - Most Lovely Things
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